Damar, one of the best surf guides on the Indonesian island of Lombok, feels right at home taking tourists out to sea. With his fluent English and effortless banter, you would never guess what was his childhood fear: foreigners.
That diffidence waned as the laidback island he calls home slowly found its popularity among Western travellers. Just east of Bali, Lombok boasts the same azure beaches and stunning views as its famous neighbour, but without the exasperating crowds. Lombok's beaches are still a hidden gem among surfers, as is Mount Rinjani for hikers. Travel sites still liberally use the word 'untouched' to describe the island as they offer reasons to venture beyond Bali.
The Indonesian government has sensed the opportunity to create another lucrative tourist haven on the sprawling archipelago. The mission is to create more 'Balis' - and Lombok will be one of them.
But this promise of 'Balification' brings mixed feelings among islanders. Mandalika in the south has been chosen as the focal point for this transformation. It previously featured rustic coastlines but is now seeing glitzy resorts and even a racetrack, attracting substantial crowds.
Meanwhile, the residents face evictions for new tourist developments, increasing the local tension between economic growth and cultural preservation. Tourist-related infrastructure brings higher income but transforms the core of local life, as exemplified by surf guide Damar who, while benefiting financially, expresses frustration over government decisions impacting his community.
As Lombok transitions towards a tourist magnet, locals and visitors alike express concerns over losing the island's unique identity. Will Lombok retain its essence, or will it simply become a quieter version of Bali? Community voices resonate with a cautionary tale of rapid change: 'I miss the past, but we like the money.'
